How to DIY Shower Drain Repair/Replacement

Shower drains are the source of many home plumbing problems. Fortunately, these issues are often easy to fix.

Use a plunger to dislodge any blockage. If that doesn’t work, try a drain snake. Or, if you’re not squeamish about body hair and gunky buildup, you can try using a wire coat hanger bent into the shape of a hook.

Make a Hole in the Ceiling Drywall Underneath the Drain

If you’ve tried the above methods and your shower still doesn’t drain, it’s time to call a plumber. This means the clog is too deep or big for you to remove on your own.

Start by cutting a rectangular hole in the drywall beneath your shower with a utility knife and drywall saw. Be careful not to cut any pipes or wires.

Once you have access to the area under your shower, spread plastic pipe primer around the smooth socket on the new drain body and the inside surface of the drain flange opening. Next, apply a generous bead of silicone caulk to both surfaces. Let the caulk and drain assembly dry completely before using your shower. This should take about 24 hours. Also, wipe away any excess caulk from the drain opening.

Disassemble the Drain

Unlike tub drains, which often have a simple removable stopper that opens and closes the drain, shower drains have a whole lot more moving parts. Typically, you will have to cut into the ceiling or shimmy into your crawlspace to get to the nut that connects the drain to the pipe.

Start by disassembling the old drain. A standard solvent-glued shower drain consists of a strainer cover, an upper body that extends through the drain opening in the shower base, and a lower piece with female threads that screw onto the upper body.

Grasp the drain cover firmly in one hand and the stopper with your other hand and firmly twist to loosen it. Use a plug wrench, which has different sizes of heads that fit over the drain crossbars, to unscrew the drain from its pipe.

Remove the Drain Flange

Using the tool assembly, such as the Drain Key or the Smart Dumbell (available at SupplyHouse), slowly turn the flange assembly counterclockwise. If needed, heating the flange area with a blow dryer can help loosen plumbers putty that’s under the flange lip.

If the shower drain is welded to a U-shaped pipe, known as the P-trap, you may need to cut this pipe. Cutting the P-trap allows you to remove the old drain and replace it with a new one without having to cut into the ceiling below your shower.

However, this isn’t always a possibility. In most cases, you’ll need to cut into the ceiling or shimmy into the crawl space below your bathroom to access the shower drain. A little planning and preparation can make this a relatively easy repair project.

Install a New Flange

You’ll probably need to use a drill and a drywall saw to cut a new hole for the drain flange. You may also need to replace the flange if it’s badly rusted.

When the new flange is in place, use plumber’s putty to seal it around the edges of the hole. It’s important to get this right so that water doesn’t leak through the ceiling or down the wall.

Next, install the new drain assembly. Start by screwing the locknut, then the fiber gasket and finally the rubber one onto the drain opening. Be careful not to tighten the nut too much or you could damage the pipe. If you’re not sure how to do this, consider hiring a plumber to complete the job.

Seal the Flange

After the flange is installed, apply 100 percent silicone sealant around the edge of the flange to ensure an airtight seal. A stainless steel drain cover snaps onto the flange to complete the installation.

In older homes, the old drain flange may be glued or solvent-welded to the drainpipe. To remove it, wedge a screwdriver between the flange and the pipe. Tap the screwdriver with a hammer until you can unscrew the locknut.

If the flange is broken, consider hiring a professional plumber to replace it. This is a difficult and time-consuming job, and it will require access to the ceiling space underneath the shower. If you have wires, pipes or ductwork in the area, you may need to make additional cuts through the drywall.